Failure of the heater blower motor is a common problem for all Capri
owners - if your motor refuses to work at either speed setting or
runs very slowly, then it is time to replace it.
Don't be tempted to leave it, as the motor windings
can overheat and cause a fire!
If it still works properly at the full speed setting, but not at the slow speed
then it will be the series resistor burnt out.
Unfortunately, both repairs require complete removal of the heater box
from behind the dashboard - a fairly major job, but well covered in
the Haynes manual and Ford workshop manual.





The correct Bosch replacement motor is available from  The Capri Club


This assumes you have successfully removed the heater box and that
it is now sat on the workbench alongside a shiny new motor.


First job is to separate the box into its two halves which will require the removal
 of some spring clips and carefully prising the plastic catches apart.



Carefully separate the two halves and before everything falls apart, make a note
or take photographs of how everything fits together inside, especially the two
large metal flaps that control air temperature and distribution.
Also remove the wiring from the motor and resistor, again making a note of
which wire goes where first!




Everything will need a thorough clean and you will find that the layer of foam

covering the two metal flaps will have become a sticky gunge - I scraped

the bulk of it off with a flexible putty knife and then used Maplin

Sticky Label Remover to get rid of the residue.




Turning your attention to the actual motor, gently lever-off the fan blades which are just
a friction fit on the shaft and then carefully unclip the white plastic mounting
 from the old motor as you will need to transfer it over to the new one.


Look closely at the old motor and you can see where it has melted!


If the metal flaps look rusty, it's a good idea to give them a quick spray of paint.
Then you should cover them in new foam - the best type to use is dense 1mm
thick foam that can be obtained from a flight case supplier - it is normally
used to line musical instrument flight cases.




Stick some draught-excluder strip around the heater matrix before you
re-install it as the original foam will have gone gundgy and been
removed during the clean-up.
It's also a good idea to run a hose through the matrix to make sure
there is nothing nasty waiting to enter your cooling system!



Don't forget to re-install the little panel with the series resistor on it before
you clip everything back together.
When everything is re-assembled, you will need to cut out a ring of foam
to seal where the heater box enters the bulkhead - I used some vehicle
soundproofing foam, but you could get something suitable from
the same supplier as your 1mm foam.



It makes sense to test everything before you fit it back in the car - a spare battery
and some jump leads will do - make sure that the fan blades aren't fouling
and that the temperature / distribution flaps are operating correctly.


Under the dashboard, vacuum all the dead leaves from the cavity in the bulkhead before

 you re-fit the heater box - there's potentially 30 years worth of mulch in there!


And finally, allow yourself at least an hour to reconnect the control cables for

the flaps - a stock of Elastoplast, copious amounts of swearing and

having a neck brace to use afterwards will all help!